Between profitability indicators in real time and flexibility, vendors of the brand of ready-to-wear complain of pressure.

At Camaieu, “we are all the time fliquées”

Christmas approaching, and close vendors of burnout. At Camaieu, the ready-to-wear line, they denounce a pressure growing, amid massive recourse to part-time work. “We are all the time fliquées” denounces Anne (1), a saleswoman northern France. “A counter at the entrance of the store gives the number of people coming. This is compared to the number of those buying “adds his colleague Christiane. This “conversion rate” (the percentage of visitors who buy) drops every hour. If it is too low, push to purchase. With well-established techniques: hello with a smile, solicitation ( “can I help you?”) And, if the client touches an item, the obligation to go to her.

A second indicator calculated also automatically increases the stress of sellers: the “average basket”, that is to say, the amount of the receipt. That’s what happened to Christiane a few days ago: “In 11 hours, the average basket was 45.60 euros and it increased to 38 euros and a few cents at midday. My manager made me realize that he no longer had to come down, and I manage to make additional sales “She worked cabs. To peddle it to the sweater that goes with the skirt, blouse and monitoring the trend collar. “This is the stop or. As long as the client says yes, we sell it. ”

“Harassment”. In medium-sized cities, when they are only two per store, with 500 entries, including 100 customers a day, these constraints are difficult to keep. “My regional manager yelled at me one morning because I was putting the bottom instead of welcoming clients. But I was alone to do everything, “growls Isabelle. “They tell us:” You can not do it, “accuses Christiane. They do not want to hear that we are in crisis, we are not going to spend 300 euros when the client has only 50. ”

Anne, a former store manager, recalls regional meetings which several vendors are out in tears. The most fragile managers postpone their stress on teams, “this could turn into harassment,” she testifies. At a saleswoman believes that not enough offensive, is accused of “not quite look the customer in the eye, you have to impose more”. To sell more. With still a premium to the key: 9 euros gross per week that exceeds the expected turnover. Contacted by Liberation, Camaieu denies any pressure. Management evokes a “good social climate” and complains of being “stigmatized” because of union FO and CGT too virulent. In June, at their initiative, vendors walked out for better wages and to avoid pointing the RSA. They tended to 22 hours a week, the conventional minimum. A classic in the clothing sector, where only half of the employees are full time. Camaieu fact “better”, with 2,200 part-time employees in 4000. In the hourly minimum wage, it is not heavy to the end: between 600 and 700 euros, depending on bonuses. “It’s almost the amount of my rent,” says Mary, who is doing that with the salary of her husband, specialized worker.

Precariousness. Suddenly, the vendors did not spit on the three hours more than was offered them the direction in October, under the guise of social progress and the fight against poverty. But the consideration of these contracts at 25 hours is flexibility. The social agreement stipulates that vendors can work between 0 and 34 hours per week, depending on whether ranked high or low, such as during the tourist season or the holidays. While this is the busiest time of year, there will be no overtime and, because of this modulation of working time, also adopted at Kiabi and other industry brands. Anyway, sup hours increased 25%, vendors do not often saw color: before, Camaieu multiplied amendments to contracts to temporarily increase the number of hours.

So work more to earn more, vendors approve. And even if their schedule can be changed up to three days before. The CFDT, FO, and CGT refused to sign the agreement. These unions find it does not let the opportunity for part-time work elsewhere – a requirement of the Labor Code. An argument swept by the vendors: “With the time we have three hours here and three hours there, it is not possible anyway,” exclaimed Mary. Otherwise, Camaieu is a box that hiring: to ensure the thirty store openings per year, but also replace, in 2011, 1,300 permanent employees (resignations, layoffs, and terminations by mutual agreement) parties elsewhere if the grass is more green.